A sun soaked tour of Sicily’s vibrant reds, zesty whites and a wine-making culture shaped by centuries of shifting influences
Sicily is known for its dazzling coastlines, romantic ruins and for Europe’s tallest and most active volcano, Mount Etna. The largest island in the Mediterranean, it has been ruled by Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans and Spaniards and now, despite being part of Italy, its culture is a woven blend of these influences.
The architecture oscillates between Arab-Norman cathedrals and exuberant Baroque towns. The crops range from citrus trees to apricots, tomatoes to tulips. The food is a blend of Mediterranean and middle eastern influences. And their wines are known for including the full-bodied inky depths of Nero d’Avola, the lightly fragrant Frappato and the fresh lemon zestiness of Catarratto.
However, there is even more to this fascinating wine hotspot, as I discovered on a recent trip.
This year marks the 20th anniversary of Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s only DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), the highest quality classification for Italian wines. To qualify, these wines must be made in a certain way and to a certain standard.
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Cerasuolo di Vittoria must be a blend of 50-70 per cent Nero d’Avola, which brings structure, body and dark fruit, and 30-50 per cent Frappato, which brings floral notes and freshness. They come from the province of Ragusa, near the southern coast and must have a minimum alcohol level of 12.5 per cent and at least eight months of ageing.
So far so regulated, but what does this create? Depth yes, but freshness too. These are wines made to be enjoyed every day. They tend to be complex, with both fruit and spice, savoury and smoky, and fine, grippy tannins and a juicy finish.
The label of Santa Tresa’s Cerasuolo di Vittoria (£13.25, Ocado) reflects the different civilisations who have lived on the island and the wine conjures up sun-streaked plums, wild strawberries colliding with cherries, bramble, black tea and spice. When tasting, it becomes clear why this is a wine that won the right to DOCG status. If you see one on a menu, order it immediately.
Santa Tresa is an organic producer and they claim this is one of the few areas of Italy that can easily do this thanks to a climate that consistently grows grapes well. Ten years certified, owner Stefano Girelli describes the decision to go organic as “opening a door, it wasn’t just not using pesticides, it was understanding what mother nature gives you. My father used to ‘fix’ the wine in the cellar, now we go back to the root, literally, and focus on the soil”.
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They also have the only single vineyard of Orisi in the world, a traditional grape of Sicily but one that was only officially recognised in the last few months. Usually anonymously blended into other reds from Sicily, Santa Tresa had previously coyly released it under the label“O” (£85, ndjohn.co.uk) but after three years of petitioning, these wines will now claim their rightful name and be labelled Orisi from 2025.
Not all Sicilian wines are so rich, however: Frappato could be considered Italy’s version of Beaujolais. A light, bright red that could happily be served lightly chilled. Zippy with red fruited raspberry and just a touch of lithe, refreshing salinity. The Santa Tresa Organic Frappato (£10.75, Ocado) is so light it could be a deep rosé. You’ll detect candied cherries and sweet wild strawberries on the nose but it’s also dry, crisp, elegant and a total crowd pleaser. It’s a red wine so delicate it could even pair well with seafood.
Catarratto is the most widely planted grape on the island and is a gift of a white wine with its uplifting citrus notes and fresh saline stoniness, softened by delicate blossoms. When it ages it becomes honeyed and slightly tropical. It has been grown for mass production, but remains a wine no one is going to quibble about in the glass.
A top tip is to look for the word ‘lucido’ on the label as these are considered to be higher in quality. The Cortese Nostru Organic Catarratto Lucido (£13.95, ndjohn.co.uk) is peachily aromatic with that vibrant acidity that makes it perfect with fish or fatty dishes.
Sicilian wines are worth a second, third and fourth look – this island is creating a spectrum of styles for all tastes and occasions.