Synonymous with romantic escapes, the Maldives may not be the first choice for a solo endeavour, yet hurtling towards 40 and the kind of long-term single that would put Bridget Jones to shame, I decided to stop waiting for Mr Right to accompany me to paradise and take myself instead.
Determined not to let bucket list holiday nirvana pass me by just because I’m minus a plus one, thus began my mission see whether it is indeed possible to experience the Maldives without feeling like you’re on someone else’s honeymoon. Nearly 1,200 islands, spread across 26 atolls, stretch 541 miles from north to south, straddling the equator amid the tropical waters of the Indian Ocean; with over 130 resorts, I embraced experiencing one of them alone.
Brands have cottoned on to the growing trend of the Maldives not just being reserved for holed up honeymooners; while there will of course always be room for ultra-luxury resorts full of newlyweds, the last few years has seen a crop of new hotels and packages tailored towards group bookings, lone wanderers and non-traditionally romantic activities. You’ll find vibrant party islands packed full of group activities and late-night DJs, as well as destinations like Joali Being specialising in wellness retreats and dedicated foodie experiences like the one at Milaidhoo.
But seeking solitude, I was drawn instead to an unspoilt utopia in one of the country’s most southerly atolls, 65 minutes by seaplane from the capital, Malé.
Taking advantage of the direct daily flight from London Heathrow with British Airways and its World Traveller Plus (Premium Economy) cabin, after the near 10 and a half hour flight I briefly touch down in the capital before boarding a small seaplane. Sandbanks flicker past the window as we rise, dotted across those famous turquoise lagoons; you’ll inevitably feel your stresses lessen before you touch down to the waiting speedboat. Shoes are immediately kicked off, to be left untouched until departure. This tiny island is the very definition of barefoot luxury.
The travel industry is finally ready for single people who desire a Maldives holiday
The view from Laurel’s accommodation (Photo: Laurel Waldron)
Six Senses’ whole shtick is that travel can and should help us reconnect with not just ourselves, but the world around us. It sounded like just the ticket for a long yearned-for and much-needed escape to help me recharge, recalibrate and reset ahead of the dawn of my new decade. Designed in harmony with its surroundings, Six Senses Laamu is home to 94 villas, crafted from local and sustainable Maldivian materials, spread across three overwater jetties and dotted along its beachfronts, with plenty of privacy by way of the tropical vegetation.
Arriving to a welcome committee at the island’s main reception, within a stunning overwater complex, you can’t fail to be immediately struck by its beauty; it really is like a postcard. The water, the icing sugar beach stretching round the island, the ray that silently glides beneath the decking. Working a busy desk-based job in London it’s easy to forget to breathe, to unwind, to reconnect; within minutes you’ll be wondering if you’ll ever wear real shoes again.
Assigned a Guest Experience Manager (GEM) on arrival to ensure every need and more is met, I’m escorted to my thatched beachfront villa by mine, Shah. GEM by name, gem by nature, Shah explained the ways of the island that was to become my home for the next five days before we arrived at my door, bicycle – complete with personalised numberplate – parked outside to use during my time on Laamu. Nestled among palm trees with direct beach access, just seconds from the water and with its own private pool and deck, the beachfront villas are home to a private upper deck offering panoramic views across the treetops, heavy with giant fruit bats, while downstairs lies an open air bathroom. So spread out is each that I neither see nor hear my neighbours, even on the beach, which lies all but empty for the duration of my stay, bar once seeing a couple stroll past at sunset. I came seeking solitude and already it was delivered.
The beach family villa with pool at the Six Senses
I soon discovered boredom wouldn’t be a problem; it’s astonishing how quickly one can adapt to a daily schedule of very little at all when accompanied by a private pool and beach, a journal and a pile of books. After lazy late snoozes and languid breakfasts overlooking the ocean, days are whiled away lazily horizontal, snoozing in the sunshine, or snorkelling the house reef and seagrass meadows, spotting reef sharks, green and hawksbill turtles, parrotfish and rays, refuelling with delicious soft shell crab, ceviche and fresh coconut water at the Chill Bar, before a thrice daily scoop from the ice cream bar. With over 50 home-made flavours to try it would be rude not to. A weekly changing programme of activities from aerial yoga, meditation and breathwork classes, to organised fishing or kayaking excursions ensure there’s plenty to entertain should you seek it, while experienced divers will revel at the chance to head out to the famous Hithadhoo Corner, known as Manta Point, a renowned site famous for manta ray sightings.
I reflected on the fact that travelling alone doesn’t mean being lonely. The meaning of luxury has shifted in the last five years. It’s no longer about champagne and caviar and being seen, it’s about the luxury of time and space, of fresh air, solitude and safety
Every Six Senses property is home to its own garden or farm practising permaculture; with the limited growth opportunities a sandy tropical island brings, Laamu’s is mainly herbs and leafy green vegetables, though a custom-built mushroom hut is home to dozens of plant bags imported from Sri Lanka in which gardeners grow oyster mushrooms. Three full time gardeners harvest 500kg of produce each month, from beach lettuce – endemic to the Maldives and used as a replacement to rocket – to blue pea flower and the row upon row of fragrant pandan, the intoxicating scent of which fills the air every time I cycle past. Menus at each of its restaurants are filled with the island’s produce, alongside freshly caught fish from the local fishermen of the reef; even a simple bowl of island leaves from the garden, dressed with miso and pomegranate, was so fragrant and vibrant I felt it nourish me with every mouthful.
I made friends over dinner, exchanging travel tips, and cocktail and restaurant recommendations
Like the rest of the resorts in the portfolio, Six Senses Laamu has its own sustainability fund, built from a small proportion of profits from guest fees along with guest donations, used for local community or environmental initiatives. The EarthLab, at the centre of the island, helps turn waste into wealth; from recycling glass, making their own concrete and feeding all the food scraps to their delighted chickens, nothing is wasted. The in-house tailor even turns old towels into cleaning cloths, while a desalination plant produces all of the bottled water for guests and staff from the sea; it’s an impressive set up for an island just 780 by 280 metres. Home to the Maldives Underwater Initiative, a multi award-winning marine biology conservation initiative consisting of resort staff along with three partner NGOS, The Manta Trust, Blue Marine Foundation and The Olive Ridley Project, the resort is helping to protect and preserve the Maldives’ species and ecosystems through research, guest education and community outreach. From learning about coral spawning to witnessing the excavation of a hatched green turtle nest, the importance of their work is shared daily with guests.
Booked in to the incredible teppanyaki for my final night, I found myself dining with a British/Spanish couple I’d chatted to earlier that day. We exchanged laughs, cocktails, restaurant recommendations and Instagram profiles along with promises to book tables at those the other had extolled the virtues of. A solitary stroll home along a moonlit beach after dinner, hermit crabs scattering at sight of my torchlight, I reflected on the fact that travelling alone doesn’t mean being lonely. The meaning of luxury has shifted in the last five years. It’s no longer about champagne and caviar and being seen, it’s about the luxury of time and space, of fresh air, solitude and safety, of nourishing your body, mind and soul. Being able to spend time alone should be considered a luxury; Six Senses Laamu has it by the bucketful.
Visit the Maldives yourself
Rates at Six Senses Laamu, part of IHG’s luxury and lifestyle portfolio, start from £1,059 per night for a Lagoon Water Villa including breakfast. Book via sixsenses.com. British Airways flies to Male from £600 return including fees and taxes. Book at britishairways.com