In a new series celebrating the people and places nominated for our Toast the City awards, celebrating the best of the City of London, Adam Bloodworth finds the ultimate spot for an indulgent lunchtime sausage baguette
WHAT’S THE DEAL?
It’s far too common to spend incredible amounts of money on lunch in the City, so it’s refreshing to know that, hidden in the centre of the Square Mile, there is a place that doesn’t cost the earth. They might serve up an absolutely top-draw baguette, but the excellent news is they do funny Instagram content too. Their totally adorable staff post social videos filmed in the shop and along Watling Street, including this one about things you never hear a butcher say. Established in 1983 and run by two friends as the City of London’s only butcher, the shop remains run by the family of the surviving owner. Here’s everything you need to know about the lunch place that also doubles as a “part time Robbie fan page” (we’re assuming this is Williams).
WHERE IS IT?
You probably don’t know Porterford Butchers by its name. You most likely know it from the daily queue that snakes down Watling Street towards it. Even in the sheeting rain the committed City type remains motionless in line, in pursuit of the humble meaty sarnie. A few steps from the intersection between Watling Street and Bow Lane, the people who work at this butchers don’t get a break from late-morning until around 2.30pm, when the queue is constant. This place has simply become a City institution for its refreshingly cheap, high quality food, and is part of a larger sandwich revolution in the City of London.
WHAT TO ORDER?
The team calls their food the “highest quality fresh meat and hot food around,” although they would say that. Luckily we concur: the sausage and onion baguette is a mind blowingly decent lunch. It comes with lashings of onion and a rich, meaty sausage – there’s none of the health-kick narrative at Porterford, just nicely fatty, totally indulgent meat. It comes as a meal deal with hash browns or some of the best roast potatoes in the City; choose the roasties and have the baguette with English mustard. For £6.50 it also comes with a drink, which just feels like stealing.
If you’re back for seconds try the Philly cheese steak baguette, which is a frankly obnoxiously hefty lunchtime option. Or the ‘meat boxes’ with chicken wings, tenders, whatever you like, for a more lean meal that still gets the best of the meat.
WHEN TO GO:
Thirsty Thursdays at lunchtime to soak up any liquid damage. But remember it often gets busier as the week goes on and the health agenda goes out the window, so bear that in mind and get in before 2pm for the best cuts. Also, make friends with the staff: they start to recognise you and say hello after a while which in this often isolating city, can be a tonic. They’ll also give you more roasties if you’re chatty so that’ll get us yapping any day.
Go to porterfordbutchers.co.uk