CitizenM Gare de Lyon breaks every Paris hotel rule, but it’s one of the most memorable stays in the city, writes Anna Moloney
When thinking of Paris, CitizenM Gare de Lyon, a hulking grey block tower that protrudes over the Seine, is not likely the image that comes to mind. But don’t count it out. Sitting in the sweet spot of ‘affordable luxury’, CitizenM is a new breed of hotel that provides all the comforts you actually want – good sleep, good shower, good service – and leaves the excitement for the city. After all, swirled balconies on pretty white town houses are ten a penny in Paris.
“When I’m in Paris I go to the Eiffel Tower because it’s only when I’m there that I can’t see the damned thing”
William Morris on the benefits of being in ugly buildings
THE CONCEPT
CitizenM is certainly quirky. On arrival, you’ll be greeted not by a concierge, but a screen with which to check yourself in. From here you’ll be assigned a room, printed a key and sent on your way by the elusive, faceless voice of ‘CitizenM’, who authors all communication in the hotel. CitizenM says: howdy Citizen Anna. CitizenM says: go to your room. CitizenM says: time to wake up. Citizen Anna thinks CitizenM is a bit bossy, but she can’t deny he’s a good host.
Citizen isn’t no frills, it’s just very select frills. There’s food and drink available 24/7, for example, but in a serve yourself canteen-style rather than in a restaurant. There’s no concierge falling over themselves to assist you, but the lobby is sociable and inviting, with sofas and coffee tables; useful for getting some work done if needed. Its vibe is a bit ‘luxury communism’, and I was into it.
THE ROOM
Every room at CitizenM is exactly the same – that’s anywhere around the world – which means a happy farewell to choice fatigue. When you check in, you’ll be asked (by virtual CitizenM) what view you prefer, which at Gare du Lyon consists of a choice between grey-build street vs different grey-build street – follow your heart.
As mentioned, this isn’t a destination hotel, and that’s by design. CitizenM co-founder Michael Levie said he felt the days where people would travel to be inspired by hotels themselves were long gone. Instead, CitizenM specialises in spaces that feel comforting, but not so much that you don’t want to leave. After all, you’ve got the whole of Paris to explore.
The rooms are small, plush and perfectly formed. Cosy yet utilitarian: big squishy beds, blackout blinds, a waterfall shower plus an iPad to control the lights and temperature. The iPad also allows you to programme an alarm, which coordinates your lights, blinds and music for a main character wakeup.
WHAT TO DO
Just five minutes from the metro and 25 minutes from the Eurostar, you are well situated to get anywhere in the city, but there are also sights worth exploring on your doorstep. Steal a croissant from the breakfast buffet and head for a scenic stroll at the Coulee Verte, aka the Promenade Plantee, a former railway line turned garden walk which inspired New York’s High Line.
Alternatively, head 30 minutes down the river and you’re at the newly madeover Notre Dame for your fix of culture. I was staying in Paris alone and ducked into the historic Le Caveau de la Huchette, a sexy, sweaty underground jazz bar featured in films from Funny Face to La La Land, which is great for both dancing and people watching. Strolling back by the moonlit river, I felt more than sufficiently dosed up on Parisian romance to climb happily back into my spaceman cave. Who needs balustrades?
More information can be found at CitizenM