The past week has been one of celebrations. Gordon Ramsay opened his 22 Bishopsgate venue, where I enjoyed caviar and Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir as Nick Grimshaw played tunes and GQ’s Worst Dressed Man of 2018, Joe Wicks, danced with Angela Hartnett and other ‘A-listers’.
I enjoyed an amazing St David’s Day dinner at Quaglino’s with Katherine Jenkins; we shared some exceptional Cygnet 22 gin martinis ahead of cockle and lava bread paired with a delightful Saumaize Pouilly-Fuisse (£97).
Then on Sunday, I had my own reason to enjoy a moment with friends, celebrating my appointment as CEO of the Evolv Collection (formerly D&D restaurants).
Fabulous venues aside, there is no better way to wind down than the informality of a great pub. Here I round up a few of the best gastropubs in London.
RED LION AND SUN
Well worth an appetite-enhancing trek to Highgate, the charming Heath Ball’s multi-award winning pub is a gastro-heaven. Expect exceptional hospitality, a daily curated, super-seasonal menu and a brilliant wine list. My friends and I feasted on platters of langoustine, followed by a wonderfully unctuous braised beef cheek and bone marrow pie and a rolled suckling pig.
We washed it all down with El Puntido Gran Rioja (£95) and La Spinetta Barbaresco Bordini (£99). I can also recommend the Ken Forrester and Bodega Pago de Carraovejas wines on the list. The excellent celeb spotting and people watching is a bonus. Also watch out for Heath’s sister pub The Angel Inn opening nearby this spring. Definitely one of the best gastropubs in London.
THE PIG’S HEAD
Nestled in Clapham ‘Old Town’, this self described ‘farm to fork pub’ was recently named the most sustainable gastropub in the UK. Carbon neutral certified, the thought behind each element of its offering extends beyond an excellent supply chain. Two small examples are the complimentary ‘compost bags’ created out of food waste, and that the charge for filtered water is donated to Great Ormond Street; a great example of ethical dining at its most excellent.
The wine list is predominantly English and demonstrates strong partnerships with like-minded winemakers. Small plates focus on fish and vegetables but the pigs head croquettes with Guinness pickled onions and marmalade glaze are a standout. The lamb shank pie to share is a triumph, as is the great value Verdejo Alma Carraovejas (£65). There you are haters, I finally recommended a wine under £100!
CASA CRUZ
Not exactly a pub, but an outstanding Sunday lunch destination, where the new roast menu is magnificent. My wife and I visited this celebrity hotspot with the Timothée Chalamet and Kylie Jenner of British food writing, David Ellis and Hannah Twiggs (resplendent in top-to-toe cashmere).
My first visit to a Juan Santa Cruz restaurant was in Buenos Aires in the early noughties and it demonstrated decadence in aplomb. The brand has since relocated to both New York and London. You may also be familiar with Juan’s Mayfair restaurant, Isabel – every Cruz venue is glamorous, but on this particular Sunday Casa Cruz London felt like Hollywood had landed in Holland Park. We kicked off our Sunday fun with Ruinart Rose (£200), followed up by Napa Truchard Chardonnay 2019 (£110), which matched perfectly with my crab raviolo topped with caviar.
Sumptuous chicken and sirloin roasts followed, complete with exquisite sides. The long lunch was finished with finesse by a dessert which combined crème brulee and tarte tatin in one wonderfully filthy bowl. I will be returning midweek to dine a la carte.
Four of the best gastropubs in London picked by OpenTable
1. The Plimsoll
This Finsbury Park pub, serving a frequently changing menu, has a vibe like no other. Eat in the pub or head up to the more traditional dining room where you can book tables for up to six. Dishes vary from scallops and peas to a classic burger.
2. The Brave
If you’re in Islington and fancy eating the best scotch eggs you’ll ever taste, head to The Brave. This is the archetypal gastropub, with inspired spins on classics from oysters to rarebit, all served in relaxed and comfortable surroundings.
3. The Parakeet
A brilliant boozer in Kentish Town, The Parakeet is an excellent venue to while away a lazy weekend. Grab bar snacks and a pint or head to the dining room for dishes varying from squid noodles to lamb belly.
4. The Dark Horse
No list of gastropubs would be complete without a mention for The Dark Horse. Expect British classics cooked with flair and precision, from fish and chips to delicious kebabs.
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