It’s the last day of Khmer New Year as I disembark my vessel, step off the Mekong River and into the sweaty clutches of Phnom Penh. Cambodia’s capital is a playful cityscape of concrete and glass, reflecting the vast economic boom the country has experienced over the last decade, not to mention its strong ties with China.
As I glide down wide streets on a jangly Remork-Motor tuktuk, I’m struck by the contrasting images of the deep, beautiful water and the gleaming temples and colonial facades. Street food carts line the roads and a heavy sun beats down. The city is alive, in ways that don’t feel quite so culture-shocking as other Southeast Asian capitals, but equally as exciting. My gaze moves upwards to the golden turrets of the palace; in the not so far distance, dark glass skyscrapers recall a mini Shanghai.
It’s early, around 8:30. Wary of the rising temperatures – I’ve visited during the hottest month of the year, April – I dismount the tuktuk at the Royal Palace, its east-facing buildings home to the King of Cambodia. Constructed as a bastion of Khmer architecture (with the help of French and Thai design) on an old citadel in 1866, it was built around the same time the city became the Cambodian capital, usurping the nearby Oudong.
The rooftop at the Rosewood overlooks the city
It comprises courts and pagodas, a Throne Hall with a 59 metre spire, a Moonlight Pavilion, manicured gardens of tropical bloom and a series of remarkable murals depicting Cambodian history. The sound of pinpeat music is never far away and a man plays a curved roneat ek xylophone in the courtyard.
Sightseeing complete, it’s time to check into the hotel; it is, after all, still New Year and I have to refresh for the evening’s festivities. Arriving at the Rosewood Phnom Penh, I’m struck by the views at the 35th floor reception. Temples, apartment blocks, gardens and indoor markets follow the snaking Mekong below a cornflower blue sky. The Rosewood is palatial and peppered with intriguing details such as its own fine art gallery, a patisserie and a whisky room. The open plan reception area is filled with fresh flowers.
This city wide water fight is the Cambodian equivalent of Munich’s Oktoberfest or Rio’s carnival, minus the booze, obnoxiousness and trouble
An excellent chop house serving chocolate-fed wagyu, sushi bar and Chinese dining room occupy the top floors, all offering startling views and lacquer finishes. For cocktails, you’ll also find a sprawling rooftop terrace bar with a handsome French DJ and a bevy of Chinese influencers. The ‘book of yokai’ inspired menu takes Japanese mysticism and inserts it into some really great drinks: try the Bow’n the Arrow, served in a clay cup, which traces the legend of a warrior battling a great centipede with only a bow, eventually defeating it using an arrow dipped in acid.
It’s time for the purpose of this trip: to watch the Khmer new year ritual. This large-scale, city wide water and powder fight, largely undertaken by kids, is the Cambodian equivalent of Buñol’s tomatina, Munich’s Oktoberfest or Rio’s carnival, minus the booze, obnoxiousness and trouble.
I’m soon drenched by laughing, squealing Cambodian youths, who pelt me head to toe with their water cannons, often asking sweetly for permission first. Two hours of squealing, jubilant kids, bouncy sound systems, smiling firemen and a burnt orange sunset pass by. The new year has landed.
Reached easily by major airlines, Phnom Penh is often bypassed in favour of Vietnam’s more famous cities. Those that do visit Cambodia often skip the capital altogether, focussing their visit around the northern city of Angkor Wat or visiting one of the beautiful islands, many of which, like the Six Seasons Krabey, have world-leading spa facilities.
Phnom Penh is also a gateway to the epic Mekong River (meaning ‘mother water’) connecting Cambodia to Vietnam, and just three hours’ drive away on the coast there are mountains. Whichever route you take, a stop at the Killing Fields outside Phnom Penh is a must: it details the unimaginable genocidal history that only ended 25 years ago.
The country has been opened to tourism thanks to perhaps its greatest modern investment: a newly-installed four-lane expressway to Sihanoukville on the south west coast. The city is developing fast, with more jobs and opportunities than ever before. One local tells me about the music and food scene, which is buzzing but less crowded than other popular east Asian cities. While many streets are lined with Chinese cafes and dumpling houses (go to Shandong or Hurk Fung for the best), it’s worth seeking out Cambodian BBQ and live music at places like 54 Langeach Sros, with its sprawling beer garden.
There are also some great Japanese kaisekis and speakeasies, including Oyakata and Battbong. Shopping (besides tourism, textiles are Cambodia’s biggest industry) is a joy in Phnom Penh: head to the undercover Central Market, which is brimming with treasures. Don’t bother haggling: the prices are more than fair. You might come away with some gorgeous silks made in small Mekong villages, vintage cameras or, like me, a collection of scarves and a karaoke microphone.
Phnom Penh is a fabulous city, both easier to navigate and less touristy than other places in the region. Whether you’re looking for a destination to tag onto a wider trip or are considering a different east Asian city break, Phnom Penh deserves a place on your radar.
Visit Phnom Penh yourself
Qatar flies to the Cambodian capital via a non-disembarkation stop at Ho Chi Minh City and a change in Doha in around 18 hours. Economy starts from £700 return. Rooms at the Rosewood Phnom Penh start from £223.