I’ve never met the intrepid Mr Gordon Ramsay, yet our lives have been semi-entwined for over two decades. During his initial peak in the noughties, as I began my own career, I recall my first experience dining in his The Londoner restaurant in NYC, where a maitre d’ complete with Dick Van Dyke accent greeted my wife and I, only to under-deliver with an overpriced meal. Regardless, Gordon remained a significant inspiration.
My exec chef of M for the past decade, Mike Reid, was trained by chef Ramsay at Royal Hospital Road, alongside the super-acclaimed Clare Smyth. Mike told me that recently, after hearing about another Martin Williams ‘industry opinion’, Gordon asked him: “Who the f*ck is this Martin!” A compliment indeed.
We also live in the same neighbourhood; I run past his palatial estate with my dog numerous times a week and he has charmed my doodle – and wife – at the local coffee shop; yet we are still to meet in person.
This is all due to change as he opens Lucky Cat and Gordon Ramsay High at 22 Bishopsgate in the coming weeks: billed as “a monumental arrival”; boasting three restaurants plus a cocktail bar, all with “exceptional” food and “incomparable views”, chef Ramsay’s arrival in the City has the potential to enhance its already burgeoning dining scene. I for one am excited by the ambition of the venue and will report back soonest. In the meantime, with Valentine’s Day approaching, here are my other recommendations of City restaurants with exceptional views and romantic promise.
LOS MOCHIS CITY
I cannot help but admire Markus Thesleff, a fellow entrepreneur with balls of steel – something of a rarity in London’s hospitality scene. We have both built big restaurants in the financial district and share a passion for philanthropy and purpose. We initially bonded while lying side by side on a pavement alongside the backer of Mayfair’s Gaya restaurant Abbas Laljee, whilst sleeping on the streets to raise awareness and funds for the Only a Pavement Away charity.
Los Mochis, started modestly in Notting Hill and has rightly gained public and critical acclaim. I dined with Markus at his Juno Omakase experience last week, indulging in fifteen sublime courses of Japanese cuisine with his signature Mexican twist, on their secret six-seater chefs table. I paired the £200 per person menu perfectly with a Sanford 2021 Santa Rita Hills, Chardonnay (£131). This is the California winery famous for the Sideways movie and Paul Giamatti’s: “I am not drinking any f**king Merlot” quote. It is well worth visiting for a tasting if you are near Santa Barbera, especially for their Chardonnay and Pinot (they don’t sell any f**king Merlot).
Twice a month at Los Mochis City, an entire 200kg of sushi-grade tuna Tenrei arrives and they host a special celebratory dinner, which would make a wonderful Valentine’s experience. Boasting unrivalled views of the city from St Paul’s to the BT Tower, this is a titan of destination dining; perfect for both romance and corporate entertaining.
SKYLON
Another legendary restaurant, with some of London’s best views, reopened last weekend. One of very few venues worth visiting in Waterloo, Skylon now boasts a new Grand Central Bar, a best of British menu and live Jazz every weekend (including Valentine’s day). Visiting this week, I loved both the dressed Cornish crab and the crab and cockles linguine, which I recommend you wash down with their excellent-value Marc Colin ‘Margot’ 2022 Chassagne Montrachet (£160).
GAUCHO TOWER BRIDGE
We opened opposite the Mayor’s Office during my first stint at Gaucho, as MD, in the summer of 2006, a time when Boris Johnson was a City champion and would regularly visit the restaurant via a secret More London tunnel.
One of my last projects as CEO for the brand last autumn was to create a new interior design aesthetic, making the restaurant as exciting to look into as it is to view from the illuminated Tower Bridge.
My vision was a playful take on a grand Buenos Aires palacio, combined with a sumptuous seasoning of an Argentine tango hall; I believe it delivers! Opening on Valentine’s Day, my Gaucho recommendation remains the signature Churrasco de lomo, a spiral cut filet steak best paired with a glass of Alpasion Grand Malbec 2022 (£85).
Support a good cause
Today will see M Threadneedle St host the School of Hard Knocks ‘Thank F*ck its February’ fundraising lunch for the sixth year running. When I founded M ten years ago, my friend Simon Shawsey introduced me to Gomars, who in turn supports the brilliant SOHK charity, which helps disadvantaged youths discover self-discipline through rugby, whilst creating inspirational futures by introducing them to – and supporting them in – employment.
Together we have raised over £1m for the charity at these legendary lunches. Always a star-studded event, previous years have seen Gomars and Shawsey joined by an equal mix of big lumps and tiny people; Ollie Phillips, Jason Leonard, Willie Carson and Bruce Grobbelaar to name a few.
•You can donate to School of Hard Knocks here
The most romantic dishes in London
Our sponsor OpenTable picks the most romantic dishes to share with your favourite person in London.
1. Blacklock
Blacklock may be associated with chops but the real winner for us is their amazing white chocolate cheesecake, served theatrically at the side of your table. A surefire hit with your significant other!
• opentable.co.uk/r/blacklock-city-london
2. J Sheekey
What says sharing more than a seafood platter? The classic plateau de Fruits de Mer at Covent Garden’s J Sheekey is an indulgent treat that will go down beautifully.
• opentable.co.uk/j-sheekey-the-restaurant
3. Officina 00
Everything on the menu at Officina 00 is delectable but for a sharing bite don’t miss the panko lasagne snacks, made for two but even better when you eat them all yourself!
• opentable.co.uk/r/officina-00-fitzrovia-london
4. The Drapers Arms
This Islington favourite is a wonderfully cosy place to while away a weekend. Grab a gang and go for a roast to share – a big, comforting dish that’s sure to bring people together.
• opentable.co.uk/the-drapers-arms
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