Rosé is the most democratic of wines. Created all over the world, using a range of methods and grapes, there is no legal definition of this style of wine and therefore few, if any, parameters.
There may once have been a certain snobbery surrounding the pink drink. A silly sip to be quaffed while frolicking by a pool, as opposed to more serious reds and whites. However, one does not always want to ruminate philosophically about the complexity of that glass of Pauillac. A little carefree enjoyment in life is desirable – and it seems the public agrees, with rosé consumption booming where other wines falter. You do not have to know your grapes or any confusing labelling terms – because rosé is just “rosé” and almost everyone can drink a glass or two.
Not that this means it should be disregarded as innocuously quaffable. The myriad styles mean this category has a lot of variety. It can be still, sparkling, low or no alcohol and spans from the lightly pressed pale of Provence to foot-trodden Rosé des Riceys, which is so deep in colour it could pass for a red.
Rosé is aspirational. It radiates sunshine, holidays, good times with glamorous people – and it attracts celebrities. Once upon a time rosé was more popular with women, but as Bon Jovi said at the Paris launch of his Hampton Water (£17.99, Majestic) “real men drink pink”. The success of Miraval is at least partially linked to its part ownership by Brad Pitt, though the Chateau does not hang its hat solely on that, its premium Muse de Miraval (£248, Hedonism) being one of the most sensational rosés I have tasted. Using old vines from the estate, the wine is only sold in magnums, each vintage’s glass bottle etched differently, ostensibly to protect from light strikes.
Rosé is aspirational. It radiates sunshine, holidays, good times with glamorous people – and it attracts celebrities
Having good quality wines with a celebrity attached does not always mean sky high prices, however. Kylie’s was the number one selling rosé in the UK last year and, having teamed up with a new French Chateau for the 2023 vintage, this release is even better, full of fresh berry and blossom notes – and all for under a tenner (£9, Sainsburys). If you prefer your blush to come with bubbles then Blur’s Alex James is doing a delicious Brit Pop Sparkling Rosé (£28, Laithwaites). A pale bubble-gum colour, this English blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier manages to be both fun and elegant, and excellent when paired with charcuterie and cheese. The Delevigne sisters are combining a love for sparkling rosé with the low-and-no movement, having just launched Della Vite Zero, a de-alcoholised wine made from Southern France’s Grenache grapes (£14.99, Selfridges). And these are just a handful of the stars struck by rosé, a phenomenon that may attract more people to try the wine but should not distract us from the drink itself.
At London’s first Fine Rosé Day (19 June), Elizabeth Gabay, master of wine and author of Rosé: Understanding the Pink Wine Revolution, said of Miraval: “The focus on Brad is a bit sad because it detracts from the quality of the wine”. An expert in the rosé field, Gabay added that, given there are no defined terms often it comes to marketing, “When people say ‘Provence style’, what they really mean is pale, and that is detrimental to the whole category”.
We should not limit our understanding or experience to Provence alone, delicious though it is. The range on Fine Rosé Day was terrific, from the silky, citrussy Weinhof Waldschutz, a Zweigelt blend from Austria (£17.99, Novel Wines) to the gorgeously aromatic, skin-fermented Ekato Rosé from Troupis Winery in Greece (£19, VINVM). Wine enthusiasts were especially enamoured by the deep coloured wines of Tavel and Bandol.
Pale Provence has had the limelight for a while, but these richer, complex rosés have been celebrated for centuries. Perhaps now is the time for them to shine once more, with or without celebrity endorsement.
Wines of the week
Riverview Crouch Valley Pinot Noir 2021, £36, riverviewcrouchvalley.com
Can this winemaking couple in Essex do no wrong? It seems not. Their wines impress everyone I know time and time again and this bottle may well put English Pinot Noir on the map. Silky soft, with delicate floral and dusky red fruit flavours sprinkled with peppery spice, the care taken over this sensational wine is obvious. Only 900 bottles were made, so snap them up while you can.
Tablas Creek Patelin de Tablas Rosé 2023, £69, The Wine Society
Offering four bottles worth in a sustainable box, when this premium Californian rosé was first launched in the US it sold out in four hours, and now for the first time it is available in the UK. A juicy, bright Grenache-dominant blend given a twist and a lift at the end by a hint of Vermentino. Exceedingly good and great for parties.
Knebel Von Den Terrassen Riesling 2022, £27.99, The Wine Barn
July is heralded as the month of Riesling and this example from the award-winning German wine specialist The Wine Barn is a serious way to celebrate. A regal, austere dry wine with notes of fresh green herbs and clean minerality. The Wine Barn are offering 10 per cent off if you order 12 Rieslings. Bargain!
Chateau Galoupet Cru Classe de Provence Rosé, £53.99, Majestic
An iconic organic rosé, the wine is barrel aged to give it a beautiful, rounded texture and complexity. A fine, elegant rosé with an abundance of peaches, apricots, rose petals and sweet almond, all underpinned by a thread of bright, ripe citrus. This is Provence at its finest – and in a beautiful bottle too.
Roebuck Rare Expressions No. 19, £95, Hedonism
Roebuck is an exceptional Sussex producer creating limited production, traditional method, vintage English sparkling wines at their finest. Taking it a step further is their Rare series and No. 19 offers exquisite layers of baked apples and honeysuckle blossom, a finely honed structure and delicate mousse.
Lanson Rosé Wimbledon Limited Edition Champagne NV, £39.50, Ocado
One for all the tennis fans, Lanson Champagne has been the partner of Wimbledon since 1977 and this year it is all about their rosé. One of the first houses to create a rosé champagne, this is a gorgeous, pearly pink in the glass with fine, vibrant bubbles and a red berry freshness that is perfect with food from fish to fruit.