Everyone’s talking about Paris, with the Olympics coming up this summer. If you’re heading to France for the occasion, here are the five best places to stay. But if you’re looking for further French travel inspiration, the city of Toulouse is a music lover’s paradise, finds Laura Forsyth
THE WEEKEND: Music is deeply ingrained in the culture of the French city of Toulouse, echoing right back to mediaeval times when the city’s counts supported troubadours singing in Occitan. So it’s easy to understand why the destination proudly bears the current official UNESCO title of City of Music, recognising its exceptional musical institutions, education programmes, and lively festivals. Even the city hall is within a musical setting: it shares space with the national theatre and opera house within the pink neoclassical facade of the Théâtre du Capitole, Toulouse’s most recognisable landmark.
It was here that I saw a performance of Monteverdi’s The Return of Ulysses at the Théâtre du Capitole. The baroque opera gave a taste of the theatre’s varied lineup which includes opera and ballet.
MUSIC ALL AROUND US: During my visit, I stayed at Hotel Les Capitouls, one of Toulouse’s boutique hotels. Stepping into the reception, I was greeted by posters of iconic bands like New Order, Joy Division and the Stone Roses — inspired by 1980s and 90s Manchester, as envisioned by French designer Thierry d’Istria. Musical paraphernalia, from cassette tapes to other memorabilia, has been transformed into artworks decorating both the rooms and public areas.
Les Jacobins et Bords de Garonne in Toulouse (Photo: Rémi Deligeon)
YOUNG AT HEART: Place Saint-Pierre near the Garonne River is student territory. Le Saints des Seins is a bar popular for live music and DJ sets, and a short walk away is Flashback Café, with its vividly coloured inflatable sofas and a stage for bands and DJs. Further along the river is Le Taquin jazz club, renowned for hosting local and international jazz musicians, along with funk and world music artists. I then wandered to the student quarter near one of Toulouse’s universities. The gothic cloisters of the Couvent des Jacobins provide a beautiful setting for concerts, like the Piano aux Jacobins festival, and house Toulouse’s conservatoire, where the next generation of musicians are trained.
A TASTE OF TOULOUSE: Les Halles de la Cartoucherie emerged from the ruins of a former munitions factory and has become a popular food hall. Diners can explore a variety of cuisines from classic French cassoulet to Peruvian dishes, alongside fresh food shops. And of course the cheese stalls brimming with regional cheeses, like rocamadour, roquefort and cantal. In the spring, Les Halles de la Cartoucherie’s modern music venue is set to open for concerts and cultural events too. My recommendation for a true taste of the Aveyron region is to savour aligot, a cheesy, garlicky mashed potato dish. An enchanting visit beckons in Toulouse, where its southern charm captivates visitors with an abundance of culture and tranquil beauty.
Visit Toulouse yourself
Hotel Les Capitouls offers double rooms starting at £136
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