Nothing beats an indulgent weekend away in the Regency-era city of Bath, says Olivia Palamountain
THE WEEKEND:
Bath was big in the 1800s, but the spa city has never quite managed to recapture the zeitgeist of its Regency heyday. A grand dame often overlooked in favour of its hip Somerset neighbours currently reinventing the west country as an east London-inspired idyll (Frome, Bruton, I’m looking at you), it’s time Bath was back on your radar. Why? Cool it ain’t but there’s masses to love about this sleeping beauty, from the drop-dead gorgeous architecture and proximity to the rolling Mendip hills to its endless historic pubs and independent bookshops, restaurants and museums. Sure, you might have to dodge group tours and teenage Spanish tourists every now and then, but in this little gem of a city there’s magic to be found around every corner.
WHAT TO DO?
There’s more to this city than getting wet but a visit to Thermae Bath Spa will not disappoint. The only place in the UK where you can bathe in naturally hot, mineral rich spring water, the New Royal Spa also offers treatment, a multi-sensory relaxation chamber and rooftop pool with spectacular views over the city. Thirsty for further cleansing? Britain’s oldest lido is (hopefully) back: Cleveland Pools, which first welcomed the public to take a dip in 1816, is Britain’s only functional Georgian pool, and is slated to reopen this year following flooding. (The pool had reopened for the first time since 1984 but the extreme weather has caused issues which are still ongoing.)
Scratch the surface of Bath’s genteel veneer and there’s a stormy Gothic past waiting to be discovered. House of Frankenstein is an immersive multi sensory experience that celebrates the unconventional life of author and former Bath resident Mary Shelley, and the legacy of her most famous creation. Exploding with unusual artefacts, spooky soundtracks, scented scenes and special effects, as well as a horror walk in the basement ‘escape room’, it’s a gory foil to promenading around town on a Jane Austen-themed city tour or a visit to the Jane Austen Centre.
WHERE TO STAY:
Situated just 10 minutes outside Bath is Homewood, a former Georgian manor revamped as a groovy country house hotel. Serving opulence with a side of“mischief”, the owners have made an effort to subvert the chintzy reputation of parallel establishments with an eclectic mixture of art and décor – think glamorous chandeliers, wacky wall clocks and random giant garden sculptures. Local produce is championed where possible, and there’s a pantry full of hipster snack brands from which to help yourself. The modern garden suites enjoy a private terrace and hot tub – love them or loathe them, after a few cocktails a soak is impossible to resist. If you’re into pampering, check out the spa, which offers massages and facials, or head to the outdoor swimming pool, sauna and steam room.
THE FOOD:
Homewood’s Olio restaurant is a great shout for pretty plates of Somerset-sourced, Mediterranean inspired cuisine or book a private dining dome in the hotel garden (chef included). In the city centre, expect delicious all-day dining at Cafe Lucca, an Italian joint that forms part of The Loft, Bath’s favourite concept store. Green Street is the butcher and deli of dreams, specialising in naturally reared meats, plus wine, bread and next-level rotisserie chicken sandwiches – the ideal lunch on the go. Clayton’s Kitchen is an established go-to, serving modern European cuisine from a chef patron with a multi-Michelin pedigree, meanwhile Japanese newcomer Roban specialises in a modern take on Yakiniku – that’s meat, seafood and vegetables grilled over a traditional robata charcoal fire. Locals agree that Bath’s finest restaurant is The Elder, where ethical, sustainable produce is executed with confidence and flair.
NEED TO KNOW:
Rates at Homewood start from £195 per night, including breakfast. For more information, visit homewoodbath.co.uk
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