Savile Row is globally famous for its tailors. There have been clothiers on the Row for four hundred years and it houses some of the greatest names in gentlemen’s tailoring: Henry Poole, Huntsman, Norton and Sons, Dege and Skinner. But it has been a male stronghold for too long, not only in terms of tailors and cutters, but also when it comes to customers. Bluntly, where is women’s bespoke wear?
It was a woman, Lady Cope, who was the first celebrity client on the Row: in the early 17th century, her tailor, Robert Baker, became the favoured collar-maker of her friends in “the Nobilitie and Gentrie”. But it has taken till now for women’s tailoring to make a comeback. Alexandra Wood, who was Savile Row’s first female tailor, has launched C’Couture to provide women with made-to-measure tailoring and style advice.
Why has it taken so long? Women are well represented in London’s affluent workforce, and it seems like an obvious market to tap into. I asked Alexandra about her new venture, and she revealed that women’s tailoring has laboured under false assumptions for a long time.
“Women’s tailoring is much more complex than men’s tailoring. Where there are multiple body shapes, there are also multiple dimensions in addition to this, one example being bust size, then just to torso ratio… It takes great skill with fabric, tailoring and the female form to be able to be an expert in tailoring for women. There’s always been an assumption that women don’t need practicality with their clothing, that we like dresses or skirts. The opposite is actually true, we love pockets, practicality and comfort as well as looking and feeling stylish. It’s a tough brief to fulfil and not many want to venture into it.”
She explained that the potential demographic is very broad, but doesn’t necessarily just mirror the needs of men’s tailoring.
“There’s been an overall surge in women’s tailoring—from younger women wearing Chanel-like jackets (thanks to the Barbie movie) to older women for whom tailoring can really help to create a beautiful shape to help flatter a changing body shape, which notoriously happens from the late 40s onwards. Tailoring can be so empowering and impactful for all age ranges and also all careers. Women wear tailoring differently from men. Stylish blazers in interesting fabrics, trouser suits and comfort are the key for women these days.”
Women also tend to have different spending patterns compared to men, Alexandra told me, and want different services from a tailor and style consultant.
“Women are better at blending expensive pieces with less expensive ones. We tend to be able to navigate colour and patterns, while men feel safer around the colour blue. Men want everything to be taken care of for them, whereas women want an experience and to explore their own natural style and very much be a part of it. Women certainly spend more frequently, mainly as the pieces we wear tend to stand out more, and we need to switch things up a lot more. Tailoring is an investment that lasts, however, and so will be worn for years to come. We tend to cherish our expensive and most favoured items, which also helps with sustainability.”
The change in working patterns and habits during the pandemic has had an effect on how women want to dress for their professional life. Alexandra has noticed a move towards more creativity and experimentation as women are willing to experiment.
“More colour, more practicality with elements like pockets, and more stretch in fabrics to be able to move easily; also combining interesting fabrics and just having fun. The corporate look seems to have gone and been replaced with clothes that express yoru personality, which is great.”
Alexandra has an impressive roster of celebrity clients for her men’s tailoring, from Tony Parsons and Rory Bremner to Chuka Umunna. Who does she pick out as trend setters for women’s tailoring?
“Kate Middleton’s pink suit was amazing! There was a really great article talking about how women are dressing better in suits than men. Woman power! I love it. Victoria Beckham is another favourite and Trinny Woodall: they aren’t afraid to experiment with fitted tailoring with a splash of creativity. Essentially every piece of clothing should and does have an aspect of tailoring as it means fitted, shaped and made for you.”
Savile Row may be the home of tradition in British tailoring, but it is also the home of commercial nous and enterprise. Now that women are properly catered for, London’s reputation for style and excellence is reinforced. It may have taken some time, but the race is not always to the swift. Well dressed men have competition on their hands.
By Eliot Wilson, co-founder of Pivot Point Group