Despite regular openings a stone’s throw from the lights of Piccadilly and Soho, London’s restaurant scene is not limited to the inner streets of Zone 1. Take Saltine, the brilliant new destination from duo Matt Appleton and Jess Blackstone who have built their reputation as the brains behind Finks coffee shops, scattered across North London.
They have chosen Highbury Barn as the location for their first foray into a more structured drinking and dining experience. The short walk to Saltine from Highbury & Islington station on a sunny winter’s day is very pleasant, up through Highbury Fields and onwards to Highbury Park, where diners are greeted by a vast and light filled space during the day, with added atmosphere of candlelight at night.
The venue has only been open a few weeks and has already been frequented by the likes of Phoebe Waller-Bridge and Nigel Slater, cementing it as the hottest new spot in town.
Blackstone is particularly passionate about this new project, and the local area. “We live and work right here, so we know the community and really felt we could grow something great here,” she says. “We think of it as is the grown-up sister to Fink’s. We aren’t tethered to a particular mantra, we just do things the way we think they should be done – as sustainably, locally, joyfully and as possible, and maybe with a glass of wine or a cocktail in hand”.
Head Chef Phil Wood, hails from some of London’s top kitchens, having previously worked at Spring and, most recently, St John Marylebone.
Starters include chicken liver parfait with saltines (what else) and Brandade on toast (a whipped salt cod of French origin). All a perfect pairing to cocktails for a white negroni (a heady blend of East London Liquor Company Gin, Cocchi Americano Bianco and a delightfully fragrant British vermouth Bellewether). If something more unctuous piques your interest then the adonis is for you, a masterful blend of Dry Curacao, Punt e Mes, Sherry and Orange Bitters, like a very grown up chocolate orange.
Mains are of varying sizes allow you to enjoy a whole plate to yourself, should you be a little tiring of the sharing concept, or if you’re feeling generous and want to split. Specialities include creamy Stracciatella cheese and watercress, paired with juicy persimmon and topped with a rye crumb. The roast chicken and bread salad is true soul food, but if you fancy something a little more hearty then I would point you in the direction of the pot roast pork and red cabbage.
Leave room for dessert though: the sticky toffee apple cake is becoming an insta-friendly dish, and their signature serve, a light and airy sponge swimming in the most luxurious salt caramel and topped with a generous dollop of clotted cream.
With the local good and the great flocking in, we’d recommend you get down there soon to experience a small slice of real quality cooking nestled away in North London.
Saltine address: 11 Highbury Park, London N5 1QJ
Instagram: @saltine.london
Opening Hours: Wednesday – Sunday.