Last week, we at Evolv opened our new restaurant Sartoria at Launceston Place in Kensington. A Sir Terence Conran masterpiece and favourite of Princess Diana, I hope both would have been proud of my attempt to recreate this beloved local restaurant, which takes the style of Savile Row, injects some Milanese flair, and comes together to form an aspirational but accessible offering on one of London’s most beautiful streets.
Being privileged enough to re-imagine a venue with such a rich history takes me back to adolescent memories, those first forays into London’s unbeatable culinary scene, which was a theme for this month’s restaurant visits.
TOBI MASA
Opinions on the new Rosewood Hotel, previously the American Embassy, are polarised. Critics consider the venue a downgrade from the OG Rosewood (home of the brilliant Scarfes Bar), taking exception to its bold international design.
“You could be anywhere, it’s a slap in the face to London,” said one friend. Conversely, my wife loved it. While waiting for said wife, I was escorted to the rooftop Eagle Bar, where I was unapologetically seated outside and expected to endure direct rainfall onto my unprotected bald head. I declined the chosen table and ventured indoors instead.
More hospitable is Tobi Masa, the home of internationally acclaimed three star chef Masayoshi ‘Masa’ Takayama, a restaurant self-described as “created by Japanese chefs, rather than a Japanese restaurant”.
Next-level small plates delight: a scallop ceviche with tomato water was the star of the show, reminding me of 90s Nobu at its absolute best. The duck taco, layered with foie gras, is worthy of a visit to Tobiville alone, as are the red prawns served in a deep red curry sauce and the octopus, drenched in garlic butter, with jalapenos over kale. The sushi is outstanding throughout.
A crown melon dish is the signature dessert – it was lovely, although the sensory stimuli took me back to working as a supermarket shelf stacker in my teens, gathering the galia melons into perfect pyramids, only for someone to pull one from the bottom, resulting in a melon landslide (and PTSD for me).
ROSI
Possibly the greatest hotelier in London is Stuart Procter, who a year or so ago left the superb The Stafford to head to The Beaumont on a mission to make Mayfair hotels the greatest in the land. In my opinion, he is doing a superb job.
Chef Lisa Goodwin-Allen has been brought in to head up the Rosi restaurant, with legendary executive chef Brendon Fyldes overseeing matters. Another perfect pairing!
We lunched together last week in a dining room that has been revolutionised in terms of décor and ambience. No longer the smoky – nay stuffy – Colony Grill, it’s now all bright and sumptuous luxury. Trolleys roll around the packed dining room as experts in the sector serve the best smoked fish, tartars, and sliced pies, both savoury and sweet!
The tableside sliced ‘Old Fashioned’ Pork pie, brought back much more pleasant childhood memories than the aforementioned melon, particularly when presented with home-made piccalilli and salad cream, The best was still to follow however; All hail the halibut, classically, served in a white sauce with grapes, tarragon and cucumber, I imagine this a dish my grandmother would have adored. As did I, in its modern reinterpretation. A bottle Lime Bay, Martin’s Lane Chardonnay (£86) completed the perfect lunch.
ALEX DILLING AT HOTEL CAFÉ ROYAL
Fellow City AM judge James Robson (of Fallow) and I dined in the outstanding Sabor last week. He’s good mates with Alex Dilling and recommended his eponymous venue at Café Royal on Regent Street. Launched in 2022, it has taken the capital by storm ever since. Dilling boasts a background working with Alain Ducasse and Hélène Darroze and has taken the immense talent of head chef Pierre Minotti with him on this magnificent journey.
After ‘bouche amusing’ canapes and before the inevitable petit fours, my great friend and former colleague Ross Butler (who is soon to launch Poolhouse in Liverpool Street). We savoured nine courses of utterly divine delights: avocado and crab, loaded with aged Kaluga caviar sets the tone, followed by barbequed lobster with a matelote sauce (fish and wine reduction to you and I) and pepper sabayon, while an innovative pigeon two ways (one a sublime sausage).
Each course is a piece of art, the menu is very much worth the money (£215 per person), plus if you have great taste, a bottle of Condrieu Les Chaillets, Yves Cuilleron (£150) also delivers. I can’t pretend the caviar or lobster evoked any childhood food memories but in fairness I have forever loved a sausage and egg sarnie and I can still taste that pigeon sausage! Off to Sartoria for breakfast now…