Italy holidays: In this quiet, Amalfi-adjacent coastal town, a much-loved Italian Count and his creations lie beneath a towering Christ the Redeemer
WHERE: Swerving the Amalfi Coast, I took advantage of a new twice-a-week flight from London Stansted to Salerno and instead pivoted south on a spacious and picturesque 90-minute Italo train to Maratea, Potenza, a town set high above the Gulf of Policastro dubbed ‘the pearl of the Tyrrhenian Sea.’
An ornate, spurting fountain in the Old Town’s Piazza Vitolo tells the ancient story of the playful mermaids who gave this town its name, loosely translating to ‘mermaid town.’ It has no less than 44 churches and basilicas and a rich artisanal history, breathtaking flora and fauna, a series of caves and its own film festival.
WHAT TO DO: The clear, cool waters and the geological peculiarities that characterise this coast are spectacular. Grab a kayak and explore caves that feel inhabited by water pixies and offer alternative views of dramatic Maratea from the water. Pull up for a picnic of sandwiches, berries and a light aperitif on the beautiful Spiaggia D’I Vranne beach.
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Maratea, as viewed from the hotel
Elsewhere the squarks of chiffchaffs and sparrows hum all around. Learn about the ancient craft of grass ropemaking with a group of women at Fontane di Sorgimpiano and their nearby workshop. Their Libbani class is meditative and methodical: the technique takes moments to observe but years to master.
Jewellers and other artisans welcome you into shops in the old town, where you can find ancient looking emporiums filled with everything from swimshoes to snacks.
Italy holidays: sunsets, spirtzes and masterfully crafted ravioli in Maratea
DON’T MISS: An ideal place to round off the day is a sunset hike to the town’s focal point, the top of the mountain, all the way up to Christ’s feet and the basilica.
Almost uncannily like the famed South American version in Rio, a statue of Jesus spreads his arms, towering over the people. It was commissioned by Count Stefano Rivetti of Val Cervo and created by sculptor Bruno Innocenti in the 1960s.
The count himself is buried near Christ’s statue in his own cosy, ocean-facing tomb, in which you can stand and admire the view. Above stands Christ himself; between his ginormous toes, people have stuffed pictures of deceased loved ones.
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HOTEL: Hotel Santavenere, Maratea’s only five-star hotel, was opened by the Count. With a relaxed ocean-front style and a view up into the dramatic mountains, the residence is dripping in timeless Italian charm. Eight new garden rooms have been transformed by Italian boutique hotelier Egnazia’s preferred designer, Pino Brescia. It contrasts gorgeously with the heavy antiques, paintings and entirely candlelit dining rooms.
FOOD AND DRINK: Breakfast offers decadent options: French omelettes, smoked trout, bechamel egg cocottes, plump apricots and local mozzarella. The terrace at Gli Ulivi is great for lunch and has an excellent Anglophile Campanian sommelier. In town, make reservations at the family-run osteria I Sapori di Marianna for slow-cooked rabbit and vegan gnocchi.
Back at the hotel, take a cocktail lesson and sample some of the bar’s homemade botanical bitters and syrups before getting gently lit on spritzes. The kitschy, blush-pink main restaurant La Lanterne is an elegant affair, honouring seasonal findings including truffle, herbs and flowers and masterfully crafted ravioli.
Book this Italy holiday yourself
Rooms at the Hotel Santavenere start from around £350 per night