It wasn’t about the horses, really: the crème de la crème of Britain’s culinary talent mustered for Royal Ascot, and delivered a gustatory experience to rival the excitement on the turf, as Michelin starred chefs create exclusive dishes for punters. Simon Thomson had the tough job of eating his way through the menu
Royal Ascot, the pinnacle of British horse racing, promised not just thrilling equestrian competition, and silly hats, but also a delectable culinary experience. Over four days, from 18 to 22 June, racegoers indulged in gourmet delights prepared by some of Britain’s most accomplished and awarded chefs, served at a number of venues located conveniently around the racecourse.
This year’s Royal Ascot lineup elevated the fine dining experience to new heights, with chefs collectively boasting eleven Michelin stars and three Michelin Green Stars, (an award recognising restaurants that are leading the way on sustainability). Coordinating it all was the legendary, two Michelin-starred, Raymond Blanc OBE, who returned to the Panoramic Restaurant.
Other returning luminaries included Tom Barnes, a veteran of Michelin-starred kitchens, who presented an exclusive tasting menu at the Old Press Room, and Simon Rogan, the seven Michelin-star powerhouse, who returned for his sixth year at the Parade Ring Restaurant, showcasing the freshest seasonal produce. Meanwhile, wunderkind Tom Booton, who in 2019 became the youngest head chef in the history of The Grill at The Dorchester, is bringing his pop-up to the Royal Enclosure Gardens for a third time.
Read more: Inside London’s most exclusive thoroughbred sale – where horses change hands for millions
Lisa Goodwin-Allen, the acclaimed chef of Northcote, made her Royal Ascot debut at the Queen Anne Enclosure’s flagship restaurant, ON 5, while Tom Shepherd, another rising star – whose Upstairs became Lichfield’s first Michelin-starred restaurant within months of opening and featured in series 19 of MasterChef – brought his elegant take on modern British cuisine to The Sandringham, in the Royal Enclosure.
Jonathan Parker, Managing Director of the racecourse’s catering arm, 1711 by Ascot, emphasises their commitment to innovation, “At Royal Ascot, dining is an ever-evolving masterpiece, a tradition of excellence we elevate with each passing year. As we gear up for 2024, we’re not just aiming to surpass expectations; we’re crafting a culinary symphony that echoes the brilliance of stars – both on the track and in the kitchen.”
First up was Blanc’s starter, a clean and earthy beetroot terrine. He explained that he was excited to provide racegoers with more plant-based options, and the neatly cut, deep burgundy slice of beets, set in jelly, and served with a colourful array of pickled beetroot and a quenelle of horseradish sorbet, was as delightful as it was refreshing.
Even seafood sceptics might be tempted by Shepherd’s delicately spiced fish course. An Orkney scallop, pan fried in butter until crisp and golden, was served with an indulgently silky peanut satay sauce. Coriander oil and pickled radishes provided a pop of colour, and counteracted the richness of the shellfish and sauce.
The highlight was Goodwin-Allen’s unctuous lamb main. Perfectly pink Lake District lamb was served alongside a strip of slow-cooked lamb belly, a caramelised carrot topped with crackles of lamb bacon and pine nuts, and a tangy sheep’s curd. A sticky sauce, packed with concentrated flavours of roasted lamb and briney capers, pulled everything together. It may have looked refined on the plate, but it felt like a bearhug of an embrace.
Taking inspiration from when he was a kid, and he used to run to the ice cream van, Booton’s dessert offering was a raspberry and cream soft serve ice cream, with mint leaves and homemade hundreds and thousands. Stacked with shards of meringue and pops of fresh raspberry, the contrast of sweet and sharp flavours and soft and brittle textures was balanced just right, and would be a wonderfully cooling treat on a hot summer’s day.
Royal Ascot transcends the track, offering a multi-sensory experience. Exquisite food prepared by culinary superstars complements the outlandish fashion.
Royal Ascot returns in June 2025; to book the restaurants go to royalascot.eventmasters.co.uk/royal-ascot-hospitality