You can find island life a short hop from London in Portugal’s sunny Madeira. Here’s how to do it.
THE DESTINATION: A small island off the coast of Portugal, Madeira has a petite runway flanked by the Atlantic one side and a lush terrace of banana leaves the other. Even during the cooler months of November and December, Madeira embraces visitors with a lazy T-shirt climate and balmy evenings. But, contrary to popular belief, the island is far more than a sanctuary for a sun-drenched repose.
WHAT TO DO: It is perfectly acceptable to enjoy a day reading by the pool or on one of the moody black-sand beaches that have earned the island the title ‘the Hawaii of Europe’. For the more adventurous, there is plenty to do. The levadas – lofty passages up in the graceful eucalyptus-lined woods that carry water from the north to the south of the island – are an ideal place to hike for a few hours, especially in the early morning when it is most quiet. The cool, detoxifying air is a far cry from urban London smog.
If the sea is behaving, watersports, diving and whale watching could be on the cards. A gander around Funchal, the compact heart of Madeira, is a must. On Saturdays the farmers’ market springs into life, with locals trading a rainbow of vegetable oddities and black scabbard, a meaty fish in abundance around the island. Sip on poncha, a traditional local drink, in the old town or visit the Blandy family’s wine estate up in the mountains for a vineyard tour and breezy afternoon wine tasting, paired with local cheeses.
THE STAY: Tucked into Madeira’s southern coast, the Royal Savoy Palace is a bold structure that intertwines elements of nature with elegant modern luxury. Around the resort there are 250 plant species. In response to heightened post-pandemic demand, it has recently opened a premier adjoining hotel, The Reserve, where guests can retreat to the top floor to soak up the unparalleled views of the ocean while lounging beside the private pool. With The Reserve, the Savoy is hoping to give guests the ultimate personalised experience, tailored to each guest.
Rooms are designed to create a ‘discrete comfortable luxury’ and they feel nlike calm oases from the heat. The hotel is also home to Portugal’s largest spa, which had an earthy, underground interior designed to cocoon visitors in luxury.
THE FOOD: Upon arrival at the hotel guests are greeted with traditional Madeira ginger biscuits. Fruits and Madeira cake, a nutty treat made caramel-y with sugar cane, abound, as does fresh fish, which is best tried up in Nikkei, the hotel’s top floor sushi house. The Savoy offers a host of restaurants, also open to non-hotel guests, which each have their own distinct character. The most impressive is a converted nightclub called Galaxia, which offers an exquisite tasting menu complemented by excellent wine pairings.
NEED TO KNOW: Rooms at the Savoy Palace start at €280 per night. Rooms at The Reserve start at €700 per night. The wine tour at Quinta das Malvas, with wine tasting, is €70 per person.