The capital’s cultural institutions have finally twigged that most people who appreciate world-class art also know a thing or two about eating well. It’s seen a boom in gallery restaurants and museum restaurants that are destinations in their own right – Alex Dalzell has picked seven of his favourites for a great tasting culture fix.
The Portrait at The National Portrait Gallery
Taking over a glass-sided event space at the top of the Trafalgar Square gallery, the latest edition to Richard Corrigan’s portfolio is as pretty as a picture. Moving away from his cosier spots such as the eponymous Corrigan’s and the dimly lit Daffodil Mulligan, the Scandi-style minimalism really works here, aided by the dramatic skyline panoramas across the gallery’s domes and beyond. The cooking is all about big flavours, with plenty of day-fresh seafood from the UK and Irish waters. One of the top gallery restaurants in London.
St. Martin’s Place, Covent Garden
Great Court Restaurant at The British Museum
Any excuse to spend time under Norman Foster’s magnificent roof at the British Museum is a good one, so book in for a long lunch at the museum’s sleek atrium restaurant. The menu may not push any boundaries, but it does offer solid pan-European cooking that sweeps through British staples (the fish and chips is decent), cherry-picks a few French classics (the confit duck leg is accomplished), and stops off in Italy with a particularly good black truffle tortellini. Alternatively, a generous afternoon tea is served until 5pm. A brilliant museum restaurant.
Great Russell Street, Holborn
Townsend at Whitechapel Gallery
By day, the compact dining room at this East End institution is filled with art-lovers grabbing a bite after an exhibition. However, once the gallery doors close, the restaurant remains open for evening diners who come to experience chef Chris Shaw’s contemporary British menu. He learned his trade at Petersham Nurseries, so expect produce-driven dishes that let the natural flavours do the talking. If you can resist the grilled meat platters at Tayyabs across the road, this is the gallery restaurant in this part of town.
77-82 Whitechapel High Street, Whitechapel
Ochre at The National Gallery
Ochre at The National Gallery
Step into the peaceful cocoon of the National Gallery restaurant and you’ll instantly forget about the tourist hordes of Trafalgar Square and traffic-clogged streets around The Strand. It’s a cavernous space with soaring ceilings but its surprisingly intimate thanks to cosy booth seating, luxurious fabrics, and excellent staff that’ll put you at immediate ease. The food plays its part too, with comforting bistro classics such as chicken schnitzel with an unctuous cheddar sauce, and a Herefordshire beef fillet draped in a well-made peppercorn sauce. If you don’t have time to linger, the pre-theatre menu is great value.
Trafalgar Square, Charing Cross
José Pizarro at the Royal Academy of Arts
Whether you’ve toured the galleries or happen to be in the area, the light-filled Senate Room at the RA is a beautiful spot for lunch. Perch at the gallery restaurant’s bar that spans the length of the dining room or pick a table against the wood-panelled walls and order as much as you can from José Pizarro’s fabulous tapas menu. You can’t miss the oozing tortilla, the chorizo slow cooked in red wine, and a plate of the paper-thin Ibérico ham. There’s a notable omission of any croquetas, which is a shame because Pizarro’s are so good, but a deep fat fryer was too much of a fire risk with all that priceless art.
Burlington House, Piccadilly
Tate Modern Restaurant at Tate Modern
The stretch of South Bank around the Tate Modern is surprisingly devoid of decent places to eat, so the main restaurant at the gallery is a saving grace. Up on level six, with views over the river to St Paul’s, it’s a buzzy dining room to rest in after taking in the Tate’s expansive collection – some of which inspires the ever-changing menu. This summer, expect German flavours from Bavaria, Rhineland, and Black Forest to tie in with the Expressionists exhibition which runs until 20 October 2024.
Bankside, Southwark
Café Petiole at Somerset House
It’s been 10 years since Skye Gyngell opened her veg-forward restaurant, Spring, in the New Wing at Somerset House and it still feels as fresh and progressive as it did at the time. It’s well worth checking out and we’re excited to hear it’ll be joined by another bastion of plant-based cooking, Café Petiole, this May. The new deli concept is from the team behind Tendril in Mayfair, where vegan food is given the fine-dining treatment. Keep an eye on Café Petiole’s Instagram account for opening dates, but in the meantime, you can book a table at Spring.
South Wing, Somerset House, The Strand
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