The capital’s love affair with the briny bivalves stretches back to the early 19th century when it’s thought Londoners were consuming more than 700 million of the shellfish every year. Inevitably, stocks dwindled pretty quickly, and they became the luxury they are today. With St Patrick’s Day coming up, Alex Dalzell has cast his net across London to find the spots serving the freshest oysters with a decent pint of Guinness.
The Guinea
This posh boozer has reopened following an expansion and refurb, but we’re pleased to report it has maintained the old-world interior that makes it one of Mayfair’s cosiest dining rooms. Steak is the order of the day, so keep things light to start with half a dozen oysters served with a simple shallot mignonette. The waiters will recommend a glass of Manzanilla sherry to pair, but we say stick with the black stuff. Perfect for St Patrick’s Day.
• 30 Bruton Place, Mayfair, Visit the website here
Pearly Queen
About a quarter of the menu at Tom Brown’s Shoreditch spot is dedicated to oysters. If you like to keep things raw and simple, choose between two varieties picked on the west coast of Ireland or stick to natives from Cornwall – add a dash of the scotch bonnet hot sauce for a blast of serious heat. From the dressed section, the battered buffalo oyster will be one of the most delicious deep-fried things you’ve eaten in a long time.
• 44 Commercial Street, Shoreditch, Visit the website
J.Sheekey
This grand dame of theatreland has a decent choice of oysters to order by the half dozen or dozen, but it’s more in the spirit of things to pick them from amongst the dressed crab, Atlantic prawns, mussels, clams, and cockles on the generous shellfish platter. If there are just two of you, choose a perch at the central bar in the main restaurant, while the booths overlooking the terrace in the Atlantic Bar are great for larger groups.
• 28-32 St Martin’s Court, Covent Garden, Visit the website here
Daffodil Mulligan is perfect for St Patrick’s Day
Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill
This classic has been serving fresh oysters and seafood for more than 100 years and it’s been under the watchful eye of Richard Corrigan, the doyen of Irish cooking in the capital, since 2005. By his estimates, they shuck nearly 1,000 oysters a day, and the ‘Oyster Card’ features up to 11 varieties depending on the fishing conditions on any given day. Needless to say, the Guinness here is poured with love. A St Patrick’s Day staple.
• 11-15 Swallow Street, Mayfair, Visit the website here
Darby’s
Channelling the dimly-lit bistros of Manhattan, Irish chef Robin Gill has created the type of space where time just disappears – pop in for lunch and there’s every chance you’ll need to cancel any afternoon plans. Kick things off with a plate of Connemara rocks and a few perfectly crisp tempura Cooley oysters before making your way through the snacks and small plates – the beef nuggets are a must-have.
• 3 Viaduct Gardens, Nine Elms, Visit the website here
The French House
Chef Neil Borthwick revived the upstairs dining room at the Soho institution in 2018 and it remains one of the area’s toughest reservations to secure. If you can clock-off early, midweek lunch is your best bet, and while the pencil-scrawled menu changes daily, the Achill Island oysters remain a constant. There’s a decent list of Champagne and white wine by the glass, but the restaurant is happy to keep the half pints of Guinness coming from the bar downstairs.
• 49 Dean Street, Soho, Visit the website here
Daffodil Mulligan
Another from Richard Corrigan, but this time it’s a fun-loving, full-flavour bistro steps from Old Street roundabout. The oyster selection may be small (Jersey Rocks only) but the grapefruit, Sichuan pepper, and dill dressing is inspired – its zing is perfectly tempered by a swig of Guinness, which is hailed as one of the best pints in London. From the rest of the menu, don’t overlook the black pudding croquettes and the sugar pit pork.
• 70-74 City Road, Moorgate, Visit the website here
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